We did it! We traveled from Sapa to HCMC in just under four weeks all over land by sleeper bus. In case you were wondering, we spent 24 days in Vietnam. During those 24 days, a whopping 99 hours were spent on buses (which equates to a little over four days).
After learning this, plus the fact that we have traveled by bus since leaving Chiang Mai, we decided it was time to book our first (and much deserved) flight. In fact, we sat down and for the first time since we left in August, we mapped the next (and sadly final) two months of this trip. How did this happen?! Where has the time gone??
We won’t dish out our plans for the next two months, but I will say that while we aren’t quite sure how to handle the news of our first nine months coming to an end, we are really excited about everything in our future. Stay tuned 😃
On to Saigon. Having spent four days in the quaint mountain town of Dalat where we enjoyed cool breezes and moderate temperatures, we were reminded of our proximity to the equator plus the arrival of Spring as soon as we stepped foot off our bus. IT WAS HOT.
When we made it to our hotel (in District 1, cue all Hunger Games quotes) we were pleasantly surprised to discover the lobby was actually a northern Indian restaurant. Even though it was well past check-in (9pm), our room wasn’t ready. So, I decided to pass the time with a modest snack of garlic butter naan and aloo mutter curry…with a side of mix veg raita. Modest.
Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, was given its name after the fall of Saigon in honor of the first leader of North Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh. We only had two tourist stops on our must see list: the War Remnants Museum and the Cu Chi Tunnels. We only made it to one.
Brian and I headed out one morning for the War Remnants Museum, somewhat prepared for how we would feel afterwards. I hesitated before writing this next bit given how sensitive the topic of war is, and moreover, specifically America’s role in the Vietnam War…but here it goes.
In all honesty, while the museum definitely provoked much heartbreak and sadness (that carried on throughout the day and well into the evening), we also left a little…surprised. What we know as the Vietnam War is not only depicted, but also titled, the “American Aggressive War,” throughout all four floors of the museum. I’m no history buff by any means (although following our visit, we both started ferociously scouring the internet for more information and wishing we had paid attention in history class) but the portrayal of this horrific war was undoubtedly painted by the victor. We walked the entirety of the museum, in silence, mostly because the illustrations and words were so incredibly sad…but also…because we were frankly a little nervous and embarrassed to have anyone hear our American accents.
War is never a happy subject and surely isn't an easy story to tell, but we couldn’t help but wonder how much of the other side was neglected. (Also, on a separate matter, I didn’t love the organization and layout of the museum which only added to my overall I can’t really put my finger on it feeling.) Needless to say, it was an emotionally driven morning filled with a mixed bag of emotions mostly dominated by sadness, anger, and frankly, a lot of guilt.
We decided to drown our sorrows the only way we knew how…food. We ate at Bánh cuốn Hải Nam for another round of delicious Banh Cuon and ran into a fellow traveler looking for the same restaurant so we decided to dine together. It turns out that our new friend, Heather, had been working for Hillary Clinton’s campaign for the last 18 months and was now preparing for her upcoming move to Brussels! We ended the day (and night) with drinks on a beautiful rooftop already planning our visits together in Europe once we are neighbors. Hi Heather!
We explored all of HCMC by foot, despite the heat and vastness of the city. While vibrant and energetic, Brian and I both felt it was missing the charm that Hanoi offered. It felt a little more like Bangkok, but with more grit; however, we still loved our time there and enjoyed our last city in one of our favorite countries so far.
We visited the Notre Dame cathedral and unknowingly took pictures with giant rats and partook in one too many happy hours offering fifty cent bears (Saigon Beer). We had the best breakfast Pho of our lives at Pho Ngoc and bonus points, got a lesson on how to properly use chopsticks —that is after everyone at the table spent five minutes pointing and laughing at us, or with us….either way, it was all in good fun. We think.
We also ventured out to find The Lunch Lady one afternoon. It was on our list after Anthony Bourdain ate here and then our good pal Diego also recommended it. If you decide to go, make sure to go hungry!!
We enjoyed our daily mid afternoon ice coffee breaks (aka escaping the heat) at a no named covered patio where we met a young local businessman who told us he stops by this cozy coffee shop everyday.
I also got my first international haircut, and while a trim turned into six inches, I didn’t cry! And it only cost $5. And it was terrible. It was the first time in my life I just shrugged my shoulders and figured, eh…it will grow back. Brian was shocked as he kept waiting for me to breakdown and claim the world was ending but to his surprise (and mine), I didn’t!
As the middle of March was approaching it marked the end of our time in Vietnam. I think it’s safe to say that Vietnam has been our favorite country in SE Asia so far. We will miss the sights and smells, the noodles and the soups, but most of all, we will miss the smiling faces and warm welcomes of all the people. Thank you for an incredible time, Vietnam. We will be back!
S+B
