3 Days in Paris Series: From the Louvre to Montmartre - A Daily Guide to Eating, Drinking, and Sightseeing
Paris, France
It's finally here. Day 3 of your epic journey through Paris. And we finally have you exploring the most visited museum in the world, The Louvre.
But before you dive into art history, let's sit down for breakfast at Comptoir Poilâne. If you didn't know the name before, well you definitely will know it after! Post breakfast, take your instagram shot at Le Bon Marché, the first ever modern department store (and don't forget to head next door to La Grande Épicerie, my absolute favorite!).
Whether or not you left with a slightly lighter wallet, walking through Jardin du Luxembourg will put a smile on anyone's face, especially since lunch at La Jacobine is following. Any guesses as to what comes after lunch? Yep. Dessert. And none other than the famous Laudrée.
After enjoying a few of these scrumptious treats, it's time to tackle the Louvre. Of course, if you are a museum buff, you may want to dedicate more than an afternoon here, but if you are like us, and a couple hours is your limit, this is your day. If you are craving another museum visit, we've squeezed in Musée d'Orsay as well.
Now it's time to get back outside and see the 'most famous opera house,' in the world (while singing 'The Phantom of the Opera' in it's entirety (or is that just me?). You've spent a few euros on tickets today so how about something for free? The view at Galleries Lafayette will not disappoint, even on a grey Parisian day.
It's finally time to wrap everything up (in a perfect Parisian bow) in The City of Lights with an evening in Montmartre. A sweet treat from Pain Pain and a sunset on the steps of Sacre-Coeur will do the trick. Indulge in a little happy hour action at our favorite neighborhood bar, Un Zèbre, before dinner at our favorite neighborhood restaurant, La Mascotte. And finally, for the last time during our 3 days together, let's have one last toast at Lulu White. Here's to good health and better wine. À Bientôt mes amis. Bisous.
We hope you find this guide useful!
Buy us a coffeeWhen you think of Paris, what comes to mind? Baguettes, bérets, cafés…and macarons. And if you want some of the best, a quick pop into Laudrée is a must. Created in 1862, Laudrée is something of an institution when it comes to this delicate French pastries, and with over 15,000 sold daily, well it’s no surprise…they definitely know what they are doing!
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It’s the year 1889 and some of Paris’ most iconic landmarks have opened, The Eiffel Tower, The Moulin Rouge, and La Mascotte. Okay, that may be a slight exaggeration, but, if you made it all the way up to Montmartre, then dinner at La Mascotte is a no brainer. Celebrated for it’s famous seafood platters, La Mascotte has somehow remained a neighborhood favorite amongst a sea of tourist trap restaurants, where locals come to drink a cold glass of white wine, take down some oysters, and gossip around the beautiful bar. It is a local institution that will leave you feeling more French than you believed possible.
If it’s a nice night, definitely grab a table outside along bustling Rue Abbesses. Otherwise, try to snag one of the coveted tables in the front of the restaurant. Our favorite is the reserved seat for the drag queen who only wears blue, Michou (even her chair is blue!). Start off with oysters and finish with the liter of mussels. Santé!
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How was that for a dessert with a view? I don’t know about you but it feels right around Sprtiz-o-Clock to me. Un Zèbre à Montmartre has one of the best happy hours in this tourist filled neighborhood and (bonus points) one of my favorite spots to enjoy an Aperol Sprtiz (they also have a killer beef tartare among other delicious items on their menu). Rue Lépic is haunted with tourist traps but this unpretentious, purple and white awning bistro, truly feels like finding a zebra among a herd of gazelles (that analogy didn't work did it?).
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‘The Church on the Hill’ (and Ed Sheeran’s New Single)
Sacré-Cœur
Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, better known as just Sacré-Cœur, is a Roman Catholic church which sits at the summit of the butte Montmartre and is the highest point in the city. It can also be accessed by a Funicular (which will only cost you a metro ticket) if you don't feel like climbing anymore stairs (no judgement here guys).
Even if you don’t enter the actual Basilica, you will still want to admire the view from the steps of Sacré-Cœur. While you’re up there, try to pick out some of Paris’ famous landmarks. Hint, you won’t see the Eiffel Tower from here but you can spot another very famous church and just beyond that, the Pantheon.
If you want to see the Eiffel Tower, walk past the top of the Funicular (so it’s on your left) and follow the fence. From here, if you peak between the iron posts, you can see the Eiffel Tower across the rooftops.
And if you happen to be visiting during the summer months, you will most likely enjoy some live music and entertainment during your sunset!
(Click to See More on Sacré-Cœur)
Regardless of whether or not you took the stairs at Abbesses, I think you’ve earned this stop. Famous for their 'roulé pistache-chocolat,’ grab any delicious pastry here, my favorite is the Paris Brest, pictured above, (and maybe a bottle of wine at a nearby Nicolas) and head over to Sacré-Coeur for another view of Paris.
(Click to See More on Pain Pain)
Yes it’s a shopping mall (and a beautiful one at that, especially around the Christmas holiday) but what it also has is a rooftop spanning the perimeter of the city. And the best part? It’s free! Take the escalators all the way to the top where you will need to climb just a few stairs and voila, the city of Paris is before you.
When you are looking out on the rooftop, walk all the way over to the left hand side of and turn around. Do you see it? That beautiful white church sitting high on Montmartre? That’s our next destination! You can either walk the 25 minutes up to Montmartre or hop on Metro line 12 at Trinité - d'Estienne d’Orves and take it to Abbesses.
Abbesses is one of the most famous, and artistic metro stops in Paris. Why? Well it’s 118ft below ground for starters! Don’t worry, there is an elevator, but if you decide to take the 200 steps to the top, you will have beautiful murals taking you through the village of Montmartre to the very top.
PS. You can also visit the Terrace du Printemps for a similiar jaw dropping view.
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Do you hear it? Do you see it? The Phantom of the Opera is there! Known as one of the most famous opera houses in the world, it was also the setting for Gaston Leroux’s 1910 novel, The Phantom of the Opera. Today, the Palais Garnier is used more for the Paris ballet so if booking tickets to an opera is on your list, check out Opera Bastille. Tours around the Opera house take place daily.
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Here is another optional excursion. If you want to check the museums off your list, you can just walk on over Pont Royal and check out Musée d’Orsay. What was once an old train station, Gare d’Orsay, is now one of Europe’s largest museums which houses the biggest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings. You may recognize a couple names like Monet, Degas, and Renoir. And bonus points, you can get a really cool picture like this!
(Click to See More on Muséd d'Orsay)
Mona Lisa Smiles. Maybe. I Think? Ugh I Can’t Tell! Time to See for Yourself.
The Louvre Museum
Paris, Île-de-France, 75001, France
If you are a museum buff then you may want to dedicate a whole day to the Louvre (and other museums), but just a heads up, as the biggest museum in the world, and 380,000 pieces (only 35,000 are on display), even if you spent 100 consecutive full days, you could maybe see every piece of art, if and only if, you spent no more than 30 seconds on each piece. WOW. That’s big.
So what’s the best way to visit? Well here are a few pointers to help you have the best Louvre experience.
- Tickets: You can purchase tickets in advance here, from the official Louvre website, or here, with this “skip the line” ticket from Viator. The catch is you must pick up your tickets at a different location before going to the Louvre (about a block away) and they are more expensive this way. Today, there are automatic machines inside that make purchasing your ticket much easier in my opinion. We have never purchased tickets in advance and haven’t had a problem so far.
- Getting in: If the line at the Pyramid entrance is outrageous (as it can be) try La Carrousel de Louvre entrance. It can be reached underground by taking the metro stop on line 1 and 7, ‘Palais Royale-Musée du Louvre,' or you can access it from 99 Rue de Rivoli. If you enter above ground, you will walk down the stairs, past all the shops, until you see an inverted pyramid. Hopefully the line here will be shorter! There is a lot of info out there on the best entrance. We can tell you from experience that the Porte des Lions entrance is currently for groups only and the Porte de Richelieu is supposedly for season pass holders and tour groups (we have only ever entered from the Pyramid entrance as the lines were never a concern).
- When to visit: You know the saying “the early bird gets the worm?” Well, as we mentioned earlier, if your whole purpose for visiting The City of Lights is for the museums than by all means go early! But if you are like us, I find that an afternoon visit to the Louvre for a couple hours is perfect. Why? Well first off, everyone is told to go early, so why not wait till some of the crowds have dispersed. Secondly, I find that a walk through the Louvre after I’ve eaten lunch keeps me from purchasing an overpriced sandwich from the Paul shop inside the museum. It also makes for a great afternoon, especially if it’s a hot summer day. And finally, it’s personal preference, but I love mornings and would rather be outside!
- Best day to visit: Remember that the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays while most of the other museums in Paris are closed Mondays. So by the process of transitive property (actually not at all but I just wanted to throw that in there), Mondays are the busiest day to visit the Louvre and if at all possible, should be avoided. Weekends should also be avoided as locals also love visiting and will take to the weekends to stroll around the Louvre. Our sweet spot falls on Wednesdays (or even Fridays) as the museum is open later these days.
- How to visit: As I said before, I am no museum buff, but my best advice to you is to plan your visit in advance. Do a little research on what you want to see and place them on the map prior to visiting. The Louvre is organized into three main wings: Denon, Richelieu, and Sully and from there you have endless possibilities. Even if you go with no agenda, you are walking through a masterpiece itself, savor this moment because hey, you are in Paris and visiting the Louvre!
- Final Thoughts: Here’s the deal, at the end of the day, you are planning a trip to the world’s most visited museum (a whopping 12 million visitors annually). Set your expectations. Know that you will not get a picture of the Mona Lisa without a giant crowd surrounding her (and also that it’s much smaller in real life). Take your time and enjoy walking through these great halls once decorated with kings and queens. And for heaven’s sake, don’t go hungry.
(Click to See More on The Louvre Museum)
Located in one of the most historical and picturesque passageways of Paris, La Jacobine is the place to go if you want the perfect bowl of French…errr…I mean Onion Soup (it’s already French!).
Walk along the late 12th century perimeter wall of King Phillip Augustus where parts of the wall are still present in some of the buildings bordering the passage. It’s one of the few passageways that maintained it's original cobblestones dating back to 1776 which also leads to the first, and oldest cafe in the world, Le Procope (founded in 1686!!). If you decide to pop in, make sure to look out for Napolean’s hat which is on display.
In slightly more disturbing historical info, Passage du Commerce St. André is where the guillotine was tested and invented.
PS. After lunch you must try the hot chocolate at La Jacobine, it’s the best in the city!
(Click to See More on La Jacobine)
Inspired by the Boboli gardens in Florence, the Luxembourg Gardens may be the most beautiful garden of them all. With over 106 statues, the enchanting Medici Fountain, and the beautiful pond, you could spend an entire sunny afternoon exploring this half Parisian half British paradise.
Beyond the obvious beauty, you can also join in a tennis match, play a round of chess, or sit around the lake and watch all the remote control boats whiz by. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a concert in the bandstand! There is also a cafe with tons of outdoor seating (and paid bathrooms) if you feel like taking a break. Just don't expect top notch service, it's a bit of a free for all!
(Click to See More on Jardin du Luxembourg)
You know the picture you always see of the famous criss-crossed escalators in Paris? Well now you can take yours! Founded in 1838, Le Bon Marché was the first ever modern department store. It’s come along way from selling lace and mattresses as today you can find almost any name brand from handbags to everyday attire. If you came to Paris to shop…well you’ve come to the right spot. And don’t forget to go next door to one of my favorite food shops in Paris, La Grande Épicerie. I could spend hours there. It’s simply the best!
(Click to See More on Le Bon Marché)
You’ve heard of it before, I’m sure as the name Poilâne is synonymous with bread in France and Boulangerie on Rue du Cherche-Midi in Saint Germain is the OG. Next door is Comptoir Poilâne where you can sit down and enjoy breakfast before heading out on this Day. Or if you want to get a move on, just pop into Boulangerie Poilâne and grab an apple tartlet or two on the go.
PS. Don't miss out on Poilâne's legendary shortbread cookies. It's never too early for dessert!
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Okay so while no one in Paris would actually speak those words (and technically this is in Pigalle and not Montmartre), but the folks at Lulu White Drinking Club might. Why do you ask? Well, the infamous Madame of New Orlean’s Storyville is none other than Lulu White. This tale of two cities brings together the end of the century Pigalle with the lure and lust of New Orleans under one roof, an old brothel roof to be exact.
The team that brought you The Little Red Door now welcomes you to the Lulu White Drinking Club. Their beautifully crafted cocktail list is just one reason to let the desires of Lulu White draw you in. The music (of which they have the live kind on Tuesday evenings), the bartenders, and a chance to let your vices tempt you through the evening is the best night cap to this day that took us back to a time when artist roamed the hills of Montmartre, and absinthe was consumed on a regular basis.