Even though saw hundreds of elephants on safari in Zambia, I still wanted to be up close and personal with one in SE Asia. The problem was, how to pick the right elephant sanctuary. 

We spent a month in Thailand and after hours of research, there was only one elephant sanctuary I felt comfortable visiting, but sadly they didn’t have any availability (for the record it was Elephant Nature Park, but even this one I wasn’t 100% sold on). They are one of the few that advertise no riding and still the reviews I read were mainly from tourist who were disappointed that they didn’t get to ride. This was beyond frustrating to read.

Our best buds, and trusted friends, at Happy Go Lucky, had visited the Elephant Conservation Center four years ago when they were in their first year of operation in Laos. And after all my research, it remained the only elephant sanctuary I felt comfortable visiting. Consequently, it also had the highest price tag. At $200 per person for one night, it was completely out of our budget, especially since we already exceeded our budget after justifying the costs for The Gibbon Experience. 

One evening, as we were taking an evening stroll after recovering from the Laotian Plague in Luang Prabang, I saw that ECC had a brick and mortar storefront along the main road on the river. I figured it wouldn’t hurt to pop in. The woman was french and loved hearing our story about how our friends from SF visited ECC four years ago when they had just a handful of bungalows. To my surprise (and delight) she offered Brian and I a significant discount if we were okay staying in the dorms where the volunteers and workers slept. We jumped at the opportunity and immediately signed up! 

ECC is located two hours south of Luang Prabang in Sayaboury, Laos. A minivan picked us up at 8am in front of the post office with eight other tourists, who were all french with the exception of a woman from Australia and a couple from Belgium (who also spoke French). As it goes with all our travel in Laos, the ride wasn't the most comfortable. Brian and I are both “average” in height for Americans and never even opt for the extra leg room on planes (I should add that this is more a Brian budget situation than a Shiva not needing comfort one), but the vans and buses in Laos are seriously not made for tourists. Nevertheless, the excitement for the next two days overshadowed the uncomfortable (and silent) ride out.

When we arrived, a boat (more like a moving barge) with a picnic bench leisurely placed in the middle, shuttled us over some of the most stunning, and surprising scenery to the center.  Everyone was assigned their personal bungalow (complete with a hammock overlooking the lake) and we shuffled over to our 8 person shared dorm room. 

The thing we loved about ECC was that they brought you to the elephants, not the other way around. This was their home, not some amusement park disguised as an elephant sanctuary. You learn, you observe, and to my surprise, you spend a lot of quality time with these gentle giants in their own habitat. 

Historically, Laos was known as the land of a million elephants. And if the world keeps spinning the way it has been, these beautiful creatures will soon be something left to read about history books. According to ECC, there are only 400 wild elephants left in Laos, and around 450 domesticated elephants, with ECC currently home to 13 (9 of which, I believe, belong to ECC). ECC is a sanctuary in many ways, providing a home for elephants abused in the logging industry and by owners who are no longer able to take care of their elephants. It is also now home to a breeding initiative, simultaneously aiding in the financial needs of mahouts while working to increase the number of elephant births in Laos.

During our stay, we watched the elephants bathe; we listened and learned while visiting the elephant hospital; and we were able to walk the elephants back to the jungle to observe them in their natural habitat. At dinner, we had an hour long discussion on how, we as individuals, can help not just the conservation of elephants, but the conservation of our planet as a whole. 

The question around whether or not tourism is adding to the demise of wild and domesticated elephants is still up for discussion. And one visit to a highly researched elephant sanctuary isn't going to solve the world's problems. But at least we know that our contributions at ECC will go to further the education and discussion surrounding this controversial industry. And that at least, for now, it's creating a safe home for the elephants left in Laos. It was a beautiful experience, all around.

S+B